Babar Ali becomes first Bangladeshi to summit Mount Makalu
Makalu, located in Nepal's Mahalangur Himal range, is widely considered one of the most technically challenging among the world's 14 peaks
ATT Desk Report
Bangladeshi mountaineer Babar Ali has made history by becoming the first citizen of his country to reach the summit of Mount Makalu, the world's fifth-highest peak. He reached the 8,485-metre (27,838-foot) summit at 5:45am Bangladesh time on Saturday, 2 May 2026, reports TBS.
A formidable challenge
The image shows Babar Ali during his Mount Makalu summit. Photo: TBS
Makalu, located in Nepal's Mahalangur Himal range, is widely considered one of the most technically challenging among the world's 14 peaks above 8,000 metres. The mountain is often called the "Great Black One" due to its steep, pyramid-like structure. Continuous snowfall and wind erosion have given its upper ridge a dark appearance, earning it the name derived from "Maha Kalo”.
A long and meticulous voyage
The expedition, titled "Makalu: The Fifth Frontier," was organised by Vertical Dreamers, a Chattogram-based climbing club. Babar began his journey on 7 April, travelling to Nepal before trekking to base camp via Tumlingtar and Seduwa. After multiple acclimatisation rotations between camps, he launched his final summit push on 30 April, taking advantage of a brief improvement in weather conditions.
Climbing from Camp 3 at approximately 7,400 metres with his companion Ang Kami Sherpa, Babar ascended more than 1,100 metres overnight to reach the summit at dawn. Expedition officials expect him to descend to lower camps before returning to base camp by 3 May.
A growing legacy
This achievement represents Babar's fifth successful ascent of an 8,000-metre peak, a record unmatched by any other Bangladeshi climber. His mountaineering journey has been remarkable: in 2024, he became the first Bangladeshi to summit both Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse in a single expedition. In 2025, he climbed Annapurna I and Mount Manaslu without supplemental oxygen—another national first.
According to mountaineering records, Makalu was first climbed on 15 May 1955 by a French expedition led by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy.
Born from trekking experiences in the hills of Chattogram beginning in 2010, Babar formally started mountaineering in 2014. A founding member and current general secretary of Vertical Dreamers, he received formal training from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi, India, in 2017.
With the Makalu summit, Babar moves closer to his ultimate goal of climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres—a feat achieved by only a handful of climbers worldwide.
