Cumilla: A journey thru ancient kingdoms and living heritage

Situated along the Gumti, Cumilla in eastern Bangladesh is among the oldest urban centres in this subcontinent. Cumilla—once a capital of the Tripura kingdom and a thriving seat of Buddhist culture—presents a rich tapestry of ancient ruins, spiritual landmarks, war history and local delicacies. Conveniently sited halfway between Dhaka and Chattogram on the main highway, it serves as a perfect detour for tourists and travellers looking to experience a more tranquil and storied facet of the country.
Top tourist attractions include Shalban Bihar, Mainamati Museum, Kotila Mura and Charpatra Mura, Mainamati War Cemetery, Nangalkot Temple, Dharmasagar and Chandi Mura Temple.

Shalban Bihar

Situated in the Mainamati hills, Shalban Bihar is the crown jewel of Cumilla's archaeological heritage. This 8th-century Buddhist monastery features over a hundred cells built for monks, arranged around a central courtyard. Originally known as Shalban Rajar Bari, the site was discovered after excavation and now stands as one of Bangladesh’s most significant archaeological sites. It is 8 kilometers west from Cumilla city. A visitor can visit the place from 9:00 am to 5:00pm daily.

Mainamati Museum

Adjacent to Shalban Bihar, this museum houses artifacts recovered during archaeological explorations, including stone sculptures, terracotta plaques, ancient coins, weapons, and items from the Neolithic period through later Hindu and Buddhist eras. Entry Fee requires Tk 30 for Bangladeshi adults (different rates for foreigners, students, and children).

Kotila Mura and Charpatra Mura

These three stupas correspond to the three deities of Buddha, Sangha, and Dharma. The site offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Buddhist religious architecture and cosmology.

Mainamati War Cemetery

Also known as Cumilla War Cemetery, this is one of only two World War II war cemeteries in Bangladesh. Located beside Cumilla Cantonment, it contains 702 graves of Allied soldiers who died during the Second World War. Maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, the cemetery is immaculately kept and offers a serene space for quiet reflection. There is no free entry here.

Dharmasagar

This man-made pond, dug in 1458 during the reign of Tripura's King Dharma Manikya, is one of Bangladesh's earliest examples of urban water heritage. The 550-year-old pond in the Badurtala area is a relaxing spot in the heart of the city, with a large city park on its north end. Visitors can enjoy boat trips in its clear waters and visit the adjacent City Park and Ranir Kutir.

Chandi Mura Temple

Located atop Lalmai Hill in Barura, this ancient temple requires climbing stairs to reach. The multi-coloured temple adds a unique pop of colour among the hills and offers both historical knowledge and scenic views from the hilltop. The peaceful environment, away from city crowds, makes it a perfect spot for contemplation.

Gumti River

The Gumti River is a hilly river with strong currents during the rainy season that shrink during winter. It originates from Tripura state of India, enters Bangladesh via Cumilla, and falls into the Meghna. When water levels are low, it is safe to take a dip. The river is an important water body with several significant places on its banks, including Cumilla city, Mainamati, and Daudkandi.
Other Cultural Sites included Sachin Dev Burman's ancestral home, Dhirendranath Datta's residence, Kazi Nazrul Islam's sites in Daulatpur, Muradnagar, Bijoypur pottery area etc.

Culinary delights

No visit to Cumilla is complete without trying its famous sweets, especially roshmalai from Matri Bhandar. Cumilla also has Khadi Polli (handloom village) within the city where visitors can buy authentic khadi fabrics.

Best time to visit

October to March is the ideal time to visit Cumilla, when the weather is cool and pleasant for outdoor exploration. Avoid the rainy season (June to September) as the hilly terrain and archaeological sites become difficult to navigate.

Way to go

Cumilla lies on Dhaka-Chattogram highway, approximately 100 km from Dhaka (2.5-3 hours by bus). Numerous bus services operate from Dhaka's Sayedabad and Mohakhali terminals. Trains from Dhaka's Kamalapur Station to Cumilla Station are available, including inter-city services.

Accommodation

Cumilla city offers several hotels and guest houses for overnight stays. While luxury options are limited, comfortable mid-range hotels are available near the city center and the Dhaka-Chattogram highway. Some good residential hotels include Hotel Elite Palace, Grand Castle Hotel and Q Palace Hotel.