Winter whispers of Cyprus

(This is a translated version of a travelogue originally written in Bangla by popular travel writer Rakib Hasan and published in national daily Prothom Alo. For the readers of Aviation and Tourism Times, we are presenting an English translation of the beautifully written travelogue.)

In summer, Cyprus is a land of celebration; in winter, it becomes a contemplative sage. Under the blazing summer sun, Ayia Napa and Paralimni come alive with visitors from across the globe, and the air is filled with the sounds of joy and excitement. Luxury resorts, state-of-the-art water parks and beaches remain packed to the brim. Tourists from Russia, Belarus, Ukraine and the Middle East flock there in such numbers that there is hardly room to move. Yet, with the onset of winter, a vast silence descends upon the region, as though nature itself has finally found a chance to rest after the exhaustion of a long summer.

From mid-October to early April, the large hotels and restaurants here remain almost deserted. It was with a longing to feast my eyes on the contrasting beauty of tranquil winter Ayia Napa and snow-covered Troodos that I set out on this journey. As I bade farewell to Mahafuz Bhai at Nicosia Central Coach Station, a strange sense of melancholy washed over me. It was beyond my imagination that a few hours of conversation in a foreign land could create such a bond with someone.

Ayia Napa is a premier resort town in southeastern Cyprus. Photo: Rakib Hasan

After travelling nearly 50 miles, the coach arrived in Ayia Napa. Standing at this eastern edge of Greek Cyprus, I gazed across the endless blue waters of the Mediterranean stretching towards the horizon, disappearing in the direction of Lebanon and Israel. The blue of the sea and the sky blended seamlessly into one. The bustling summer crowds were nowhere to be seen, and the luxury resorts appeared lost in a deep winter slumber. Amid this emptiness, as I stepped off the coach, a delightful aroma enveloped me. Wandering around the area, the afternoon had slipped away and hunger was beginning to stir. Against the backdrop of silence and the cool winter breeze, the inviting scent of food brought a welcome sense of warmth and cheer.

For lunch, I chose a Cypriot gyro prepared with great care by an elderly woman. Wrapped in lightly toasted bread, the combination of savoury processed meat, French fries, fresh salad and a special sauce created a flavour that felt almost magical on a crisp winter afternoon. Though it bears some resemblance to shawarma, the taste of the Lebanese favourite and the Cypriot gyro is worlds apart. The Cypriot version is usually longer and wrapped in thinner bread, with every bite offering comfort, satisfaction and the warmth one seeks on a winter’s day.

A variation of traditional Greek rotisserie meat, featuring thin slices of seasoned pork or chicken wrapped tightly inside a thick, pocketless Cypriot pita. Photo: Rakib Hasan

Although time did not allow us to explore every corner of Ayia Napa and Paralimni, we did manage to visit some of their ancient and natural wonders. The Byzantine-era Ayia Napa Monastery still stands as a silent witness to history. Its stone walls seem to carry the sighs of centuries gone by. Though no longer bustling with religious activity, the site has lost none of its historic grandeur.

From there, we took a taxi about 11 kilometres further to Cape Greco, the final frontier of Ayia Napa. The enormous sea caves, naturally carved by the Mediterranean over countless years, resemble magnificent sculptures shaped by nature’s own hand. The sound of waves crashing against the rocky formations created an almost mystical atmosphere, making it a dream destination for adventure lovers.

Cape Greco marks the outermost edge of Ayia Napa. Photo: Rakib Hasan

Our next stop was the Love Bridge. Embracing the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, this natural rock arch is one of nature’s finest masterpieces. Shaped by relentless waves over time, the rocks have taken on such a romantic appearance that people have fittingly named it the Love Bridge. Newlyweds often visit to capture cherished memories. Yet, with the short winter daylight and limited transport options, we had to bid farewell to Ayia Napa with a touch of regret, leaving behind our wish to visit Nissi and Makronissos beaches.

Love Bridge is a rocky arch bridge of natural origin, with one edge stretching into the crystal clear, turquoise and emerald sea from an elevated coastal plateau. Photo: Rakib Hasan

The following day, my destination was Troodos, the highest mountain range in Cyprus. Snowfall is rare in this Mediterranean island nation, and the coastal regions enjoy relatively stable weather throughout the year. Troodos in winter, however, feels like a different world altogether — as though a fragment of another continent has been transplanted into Cyprus. The island’s only ski resort is also located here. On the winding road from Paphos to Troodos, we passed lively local open-air markets. They reminded me of the bustling village markets of rural Bangladesh, though with a distinctly Cypriot character. Vendors displayed fresh vegetables, whole fish, processed meat and a variety of local products, often at prices lower than those found in supermarkets.

The moment I arrived in Troodos, I was struck by a sense of wonder. None of the surrounding mountains showed the slightest trace of snow, their slopes painted in shades of grey and green. Yet Troodos, home to Mount Olympus at over 6,500 feet, had wrapped itself in a thick blanket of pristine white snow.

The small villages surrounding Troodos are renowned for their wine production. During the Byzantine era, several Orthodox monasteries were established in and around these villages. Photo: Rakib Hasan

As the sweet afternoon sunlight sparkled on the snowflakes, it seemed as though thousands of particles of liquid gold were emerging from the earth itself. The endless whiteness all around brought to mind scenes from Disney’s animated film Frozen. Snowfall may not inspire as much romance in literature and art as rain does, but in reality, its enchanting beauty is beyond imagination.

In this peaceful kingdom of snow, I struck up a brief conversation about the English Premier League with a British soldier on duty outside a military base camp. When I asked whether he supported Manchester United or Liverpool, he smiled and flashed a victory sign before declaring his allegiance to Manchester United. Another soldier standing nearby promptly chimed in, insisting that Arsenal were the best. It was a reminder that football is a truly universal language. For a fleeting moment, that simple exchange bridged the gap between two entirely different cultures.

Remarkably, while the Troodos Mountains are blanketed in several inches of snow, there is hardly a trace of it on the surrounding hills. Photo: Rakib Hasan

Leaving the snowy landscape of Troodos behind, we travelled along the Limassol highway towards Paphos, where yet another fairy-tale scene unfolded before us. As a child, I often saw a poster hanging on the wall of our drawing room depicting a towering rocky outcrop rising proudly from the deep blue sea. Little did I know that the image from my imagination existed in real life. According to Greek mythology, this is the birthplace of Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, who emerged from the white foam of the sea. The harmony between the crashing waves and the ancient rocks standing firm through the centuries creates a heavenly beauty that defies earthly description. In the midst of this breathtaking landscape, an unexpectedly romantic moment unfolded.

While standing on the rocky cliff and admiring the endless sea, a beautiful young Russian woman approached and asked if I could take a few photographs of her. After capturing several images of the blonde-haired beauty in her jeans with careful attention, she thanked me and walked away with a smile. The memory of that smile, carried away by the wind, lingered in my mind for quite some time. Yet I could not bring myself to say anything more.

I had the good fortune of exploring Troodos thanks to the warm hospitality of expatriate Ayon Shah (right) from Limassol. Photo: Rakib Hasan

Even at the birthplace of Aphrodite, it seemed the goddess of love was not on my side. In the end, carrying a heart full of unspoken feelings, unfulfilled longing and a treasure trove of unforgettable memories, we made our way back to Paphos. Winter in Cyprus may lack the vibrant festivities of summer, but its quietness, stillness and gentle charm leave behind a sense of peace that remains one of life’s most precious souvenirs.