Visit Astagram water land for diversion

Deep in Kishoreganj’s flooded basin, where glistening wetlands mirror the sky and ancient tales still whisper on the wind, a simple milk-based treat has quietly earned its legendary status. Astagram is a haor-surrounded, communication-isolated sub-district. Water surrounds it on all sides.

On both sides, you will see river chars and settlements, and as the small boat navigates through, leaving everything behind, it will keep moving forward. Everyone can then climb onto the boat’s roof to enjoy the scenery. All around, flocks of birds appear every so often.

The Itna-Mithamain-Austagram upazila trio are directly connected by land through this road. This photo is retrieved from Facebook.

You can also sit in a circle on the boat’s roof and start singing. Now and then, you’ll spot tiny islands-like landmasses. There are many houses on them, quite robust and colourful. You can tell the locals are fairly well-off. The only way to reach these islands is by boat or trawler.

After about two and a half hours, you can reach Astagram. Surrounded by haors on all sides, this isolated sub-district covers an area of 335 square kilometers.

If you plan to camp, you must first report to the police station after getting off the boat. Informing the police beforehand about your camping plans can be helpful in case of emergencies. For outsiders or those visiting from Dhaka, the police station will grant permission for camping.

Near the police station, you can decide to set up camp on a sandbank. First, you or your group can set your tents. A total of five tents can accommodate ten people. Those who didn’t bring tents can stay at the rest house. The locals haven’t seen such tents before, so many might come by to touch or examine them out of curiosity.

After lunch, it is time for tea made with cow’s milk. Astagram has an abundance of milk, and its cheese is also famous. Sipping tea and chatting can easily pass a lot of time.

Kutub Shah Mosque stands as one of Bangladesh's oldest and most significant archaeological landmarks. Photo: Wikipedia

Kutub Shah Mosque is the most significant archaeological heritage here. A traveller can take a rickshaw to go see this old mosque. It is believed that a pious man named Kutub Shah built it in the late 16th or early 17th century. The five-domed mosque features exquisite embellishment. Even after all these years, the mosque remains in fairly good condition. 

How to go there from Dhaka

On a Friday morning, you can take a BRTC bus from Gulistan towards Kuliarchar. In about two and a half hours, you can reach Kuliarchar. Upon arrival, you can board a pre-booked boat. The large boat will cross the Meghna River and continue through smaller rivers and the haor.

Alternatively, the best option is to go there by train from Dhaka. Every day at 7am, the Egarosindur Probhati train from  departs for Kishoreganj. You need to get off at Kuliarchar.

Where to stay

There are several accommodation options. You can bring your own tents and go camping. There is also the Zila Parishad Dak Bungalow. Additionally, there are two basic standard hotels in the market.